1919-21 – Lee roars into the 20s with a Kansas City, Mo., replacement for the smaller plant in Kansas City, Kan., a new plant and office in Minneapolis, an upgraded plant in Trenton, N.J., and warehouses in San Francisco and Los Angeles. 1924 – A 13-ounce denim cowboy pant is introduced in 1924. 1920s – The Lee Co. breaks new ground with additional factories, innovative advertising and the first promotional appearance of the popular Buddy Lee doll. Lee Mercantile Co. becomes the major food distributor between Kansas City and Denver. 1930s – Continued growth is a precursor to the cursing heard throughout the Great Depression. Different brands are also geared toward different bodies. Fit: Usually a cinched waist with a loose, relaxed fit through the thigh and a tapered ankle. Lee Flour Mills Co., Lee Hardware Co. and Kansas Ice and Storage. Plus, the bright blue indigo and slight flare give off a nice ’70s cowgirl vibe. 1952 – Named after its Chetopa, Kan., facility, Lee develops Chetopa Twill, a tough, sharp-looking new workwear fabric that rubs workers the right way. One of its most popular pieces of clothing, the Lee … Even if you don’t often wield a hammer, carpenter jeans are nice to have in the rotation. 2. The Lee Union-All unites a jacket and dungarees to cover farm and factory workers from neck to ankles. Take a trip down Lee’s memory lane and witness over 100 years of jeans history. In 1947 Blue Bell hired a renowned rodeo tailor, Ben Lichtenstein, or Rodeo Ben, to develop a line of jeans … 1952 – Benjamin E. Kinney serves as president and C.A. And who could forget Kate Moss with Marky Mark? 1981 – As jeans sales reach 502 million units industry wide, the five pocket Lee “Genuine Jeans” become the accepted dress standard across the country. The presence of a care tag can also help you date your jeans… In 1954 they began to make other sportswear in addition to jeans. According to Karyn Hillman, chief product officer of Levi’s, "the fit of the 501 has evolved over the decades in keeping with style of the time — legs get narrower or wider and rises fluctuate slightly depending upon the year.". In modern Levi’s, the style number is often included on the care tag inside the jeans. Innovation begins almost immediately with the production of Union-Alls, a unique, one-piece coverall originally created by sewing a coat and pants together. Baggy, loose, low cut, boot cut, slim, skinny, super skinny. 1950s – Lee acquires more companies and opens more new plants. It was therefore in 1947 that the first model of Wrangler Jeans Model 11MW (Mens Western) were made using 11oz. Established in 1889, the company is headquartered in Merriam, Kansas, and is often referred to as the inventor of the jeans jackets. 1909 – A newspaper describes Lee as “head of the largest mercantile business in Kansas City and the biggest citizen of Salina, whose name is in every mouth and whose goods are on every shelf.” Lee evidently wears the pants in the Salina business community; he soon will be making them, too. 1926 – Three words: Jeans with zippers. There, the H.D. Lee Co., Inc. 1946 – Lee acquires Eloesser-Heynemann Co., the San Francisco-based workwear producer of “Can’t Bust Em” work clothes, to address market growth spurred by returning servicemen. With the telltale "W" and tan leather logo stitched on the back pockets, Wranglers do wonders for the booty — especially if you don’t have one. For many denim lovers, hunting for worn and vintage jeans and jackets is a favourite hobby. 1912 – Losing his shirt and pant sales due to unreliable workwear suppliers from the East, Lee opens his first apparel plant in Salina to produce overalls, jackets and dungarees. Put on the jeans. The H.D. 1889 – H.D. This trend continued, with basics such as chinos being added to Lee… Wrangler is an American manufacturer of jeans and other clothing items, particularly workwear.The brand is owned by Kontoor Brands Inc., which also owns Lee.Its headquarters is in downtown Greensboro, … Funny thing is, most of the CKs you"ll find at the vintage store are from the ’90s and fit like actual mom jeans: blouse-y thighs and tapered ankle. 1-16 of 517 results for "lee jeans" Skip to main search results Eligible for Free Shipping. 1985 – Malcolm Winne serves as president until becoming chairman in 1986. Lee … 1960s – The tempo of fashion changes faster than the beat of a Motown retrospective; Lee not only keeps pace, but also leads the way as teens begin digging denim. Nice reproduction jeans, like Levi’s Vintage Collection and Lee Retros, feel quality. These are the most accommodating Levi’s for curves thanks to that button fly, which gives more room through the hips and butt. The jackets were priced at $225 ea. 3 Jackets and 1 pair of jeans. FIND THE CODE Now look for either a 5-digit STYLE code … These high-rise vintage jeans with a slim cut, straight or slightly flared legs are likely to throw you a curve, creating curves you have been dreaming of so long. After the war, in an attempt to compete with the jeans makers Levi Strauss and Lee, they decided to develop a brand name they had acquired in 1943 when they bought the Casey Jones Company. In part, vintage jeans have never been so popular because there have never been so many options. Lee … 1936 – The Lee organization forecasts its highest sales since 1930 and opens a Lee Riders plant in San Francisco to supply the cowboy and rodeo trade. The Union-All idea belongs either to Lee or his chauffeur, depending on whom you ask. 1979 – In its 90th year, Lee realizes its ambition to outfit the whole family with the formation of its Youthwear division, announcing the achievement with the slogan, “Lee Fits America.”. This brand was Wrangler. 1913 – Lee’s tradition of product innovation swirls out of the dust enveloping Lee’s horse less carriage. Go for a snug fit, because these stretch out kind of fast. and the jeans were $175. ", While the pool may be wide, shopping for vintage jeans isn’t as simple as picking your typical size off the thrift store rack (the size on the tag basically means nothing), and not every pair is created equal: Some of these jeans are going to make your butt look good, and some of these jeans are going to make your butt look really good. 1974 – William McKenna leads Lee into the ’80s. Note: These are great for an hourglass shape, or anyone looking for statement denim — acid wash is common, as are unexpected embellishments at the ankle like zippers, buttons, snaps, and/or denim bows. Lee Mercantile company from its 1911 beginnings, and until his fatal heart attack March 15, 1928, in San Antonio, Texas, was the company’s clothing arm, legs and torso. 1964 – Not since the onset of the zipper has such an innovation gripped the consumer: Lee presses on with a line of “no-iron” permanent press slacks, sold under the “Lee-Prest” banner. The gold standard of vintage Levi’s, 501s look great on every body type. 1903 – A major fire consumes the $125,000 Salina plant and its $450,000 contents. A fake … The spelling of the Levi's logo will date the jeans either before or after 1971.To asses more specific dates, you will … Levi's Jeans labels can help identify the general date the jeans were made. (Wedgie jeans are styled after vintage for a reason.). The death of founder H.D. As Alice Wells and Jennifer Francis (co-founders of Kindred Black, a secret weapon source for vintage denim) tell us, "there is such variety right now — the beauty of vintage jeans is that they’re so versatile. Racked has affiliate partnerships, which do not influence editorial content, though we may earn commissions for products purchased via affiliate links. Its headquarters is currently in … 1910s – The H.D. Thanks to decades of good advertising, Calvin Klein jeans are burned in our collective mind as the sexy denim ideal. Look for pairs from the ’80s and ’90s, and size up if you’re going by the number on the waist band. Staples is president during Lee’s acquisition by VF Corp., makers of Vanity Fair intimate apparel. Lee Jeans History – from the VCA board courtesy of e*happy The history of the H.D. 1982 – Robert Gregory runs Lee for a year, then is named president of VF Corp. 1983 – Lee’s softer, stronger Ultra Cord is introduced as “the Ultimate in Corduroy.” Other innovations include Dress Blues, which feature superior color retention; stretch jeans; and Denim Cable-stripes. 1928 – Founder H.D. 1960s – The first overseas Lee factory goes into production as baby boomers explode onto the clothing scene. 1980s – The computer age and automated production hit home. 1957 – Boys’ wear, and boys everywhere, receive a lift with the introduction of Lee’s “Double Knees,” patching relations between worn out moms and their “holy tearers.”. In 1949, Lee launched the Lady Lee Rider line, a womens wear counterpart to the already existing Rider Line. The “Cowboy” jacket, as it came to be known, was much closer in style to a Levi’s … Lee Mercantile Co. solves workwear supply problems by taking matters into its own factory. 1982 – Lee enters the stone age with its stone-washed denim jeans. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. By 1965, teens would spend $3.5 billion on apparel. Free Shipping by Amazon. You can also see what we’re up to by signing up here. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Urban Outfitters, your local thrift shop; buy them new at Army/Navy stores. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for The Goods by Vox. 1950 – The expanding jeans market leads Lee to fold the food division, selling it to Consolidated Grocers (later Consolidated Foods) for $3 million. 1974 – A 1974 Gentlemen’s Quarterly contains an ad for Lee’s double-knit leisure suit, made of Dupont’s 100 percent Dacron¨ polyester. Rise: High rise (at or just below the belly button). Department. Lee is an American brand of denim jeans, first produced in 1889 in Salina, Kansas.The company is owned by Kontoor Brands, a spin-off of VF Corporation's Jeans wear Division. Save yourself the trouble in the dressing room if you have thicker thighs, butt, or a much slimmer waist than hip; these are better at creating curves than accommodating them. Denim becomes the material of choice, accounting for more than 77 percent of jeans sales in 1981. Rise: Super high (at or above the belly button). All customers get FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. A bunch of different brands have made the style, including Oshkosh (yes, for grown-ups) and Gap, but Carhartt is definitely the easiest the brand to find in thrift stores. As Alice Wells from Kindred Black tells us, "I’ve had a pair since middle school that miraculously keep stretching and molding to my body as the years go by.". 1949 – The developing women’s market evolves from factories worked by women during World War II. Other fitting improvements include the U-shaped saddle crotch and tailored sizing, in which rise and seat proportions are based on waist and inseam measurements. If that’s a look you can make sexy, more power to you. 1917 – Brigadier General Leonard Wood orders doughboys to be outfitted in Union-Alls, the fatigue the U.S. military couldn’t wear out during World War I. Lee also becomes the first national advertiser in the apparel industry. Along with Levi's and Wrangler, Lee is part of the triumvirate of classic American denim. 1964 – Lee opens its first overseas factory in Belgium. 3. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Tictail, Denim Refinery, Urban Outfitters, your local thrift store, curated vintage shops. Corporate suitors begin ogling as the clothing company bursts at the seams. Whether your ’80s babysitter is still your style icon or you just really fell hard for Stranger Things, you’re going to look good in Jordache. Costs are further clipped by the use of computer technology. Rise: High rise (at or just below the belly button) with a nipped-in waist. They made a jeans just for women, the Lady Lee Rider. Custom designs for seamen and loggers also arrive as a precursor to customer-specific designs for people who need to impress while cruising a shopping mall or sliding behind the wheel of a sport utility vehicle. Wrangler, like Lee initially used the arcuate stitch on … To fully appreciate this development, speak with a man standing in an Iowa cornfield in late December, his gloved hands desperately fumbling at his buttoned fly. The mercantile’s success spawns the Salina-based H.D. Light washes, cuffed denim styles, and black jeans were the reigning jeans trends among men, and popular brands included Levi’s, Lee Cooper, and Wrangler jeans. Here, categorized by decades and featuring elements of business, leadership and style, is a history of the H.D. In the 1950’s, Lee introduced the Lee … Meanwhile, Levi’s and Calvin Klein are made to accommodate curves, and don’t forget that many of the coolest pairs will come from the men’s section. And of the three, it straddles the middle between still-sorta-respected and sad-former … If you choose to size up instead, they're the perfect comfy boyfriend jean — just roll the cuff or crop the bottom. Lee taps the final frontier, producing infant and toddler apparel. FIND THE LABEL Take a look at the label inside your item.It’s usually around the waistband of your bottoms or along the side seam of your tops. Lee initiates a strong succession of company presidents and management that carry Lee successfully through the remaining decades of the 20th Century. 1950s – The Lee clothing concerns expand as the food division is sold. According to Sung, "they give my hips a tighter hug, making my boyish shape a little more curvy." Reynolds. 1986 – Lee’s answer to a more casual lifestyle appears in a line featuring a frosted finish and relaxed fit. Lee Riders for Long-Legged Women. Note: Look for ’90s pairs in baby blue washes; if you can find late ’70s Calvins (à la Brooke Shields), snag them. Mark a straight line across the leg. denim and had a rust-proof button fly. The Lee Riders collection featured the now-iconic Lee cowboy jeans as well as a new jacket: the 101J. Original Lee Cowboy Jeans From The 1940’s. Whether outfitting cowboys in the twilight of the Wild West, supplying an American military entrenched in war, or producing the fashion and durability contemporary culture demands, the H.D. 1849-1899 – Henry David Lee is born Dec. 9, 1849, in Vermont. 1989 – The jeans manufacturer spends about $2 million annually for rocks from the United States, Turkey, Greece and Mexico used in treating fabric. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Kindred Black, Denim Refinery, your local thrift store, curated vintage shops. Rise: High-waisted (at the belly button) or low-slung (at or below the hips), depending on how much you do or don’t size up. Note: If you go for a pair that’s your actual waist size, you can crop these above the ankle for Jesse Kamm or Rachel Comey vibes. 1862 – Lee settles in Galion, Ohio, saves $1,200 in three years as a hotel clerk, and parlays livery and real estate investments into the purchase of Central Oil Co. of Galion. Gitanos were popular in the ’80s and early ’90s as a second-tier discount denim brand; if you couldn’t afford Calvin Klein or Guess but wanted the same look, you wore Gitano. See our ethics policy here. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Kindred Black, curated vintage shops. It also improves the appearance of Lee’s chauffeur, who had tired of maintaining his clothes as he maintained the car. The super high waist nips everything in, while a little extra room (and sometimes stretch) through the thigh and its tapered leg make these jeans curve-friendly. 1939 -Lee celebrates 50 years with – we couldn’t make this up – a Golden Jubi-Lee celebrating the company’s stance as the largest manufacturer of work clothes in the United States. Rise: Mid to high rise (just below the belly button). Some of the most frequently asked questions we get are related to determining the authenticity of vintage jeans, especially vintage Levi’s 501 jeans. 1971 – Former executive vice president D.F. Lee dies of a heart attack in Texas. We also occasionally accept products for research and reviewing purposes. 1886 – A keen mind and poor health induce Lee to sell half his interest in Central Oil Co. to John Rockefeller’s Standard Oil Co. Lee stays on as manager until poor health forces him out two years later. Note: Later versions often had some kind of pizzaz, like different colored stitching on the pockets, pink stripes, acid wash, or intense pleating. Size up at least two sizes if you are going by the number on the waist band. To help you make sense of it all, we pulled together a guide to the brands and styles most commonly found at vintage and thrift stores. 1969 – Lee’s shareholders agree to an acquisition by Wyomissing, Penn.-based VF Corp., producer of Vanity Fair intimate apparel. 1925 – The lighter weight, unsurpassed durability and twisted yarns of Lee Jelt Denim propel the Lee story. 1987 – Denim now accounts for nearly 84 percent of jeans sales. Call it a trend, call it a responsible environmental choice, but vintage denim is a "thing" any way you cut it. Rise: High (at or above the belly button). Fit: Straight leg, relaxed fit. 1954 – Lee demonstrates its concern for the welfare of its workers with a pension plan, believed to be the first company-funded program covering all employees. 1959 – Lee opens its international division in New York City and receives the U.S. president’s “E” award for its extraordinary export efforts. Fit: Slim through the hip and thigh with a straight leg or slight flare. Mark on the outer hem where you want the shorts to fall. This vintage pair of Lee Jeans is one of the many treasures from my personal denim archive. Lee Jeans is a major international retailer and manufacturer of denim wear and casual wear. 1970s – Advances in technology and the fundamentals of style induce advances that streamline and speed up production without sacrificing quality. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Jordache, Tictail, your local thrift shop. 1956 – Leonard W. Staples, nephew of the company’s second chief executive, replaces Benjamin E. Kinney when Kinney replaces chairman C.A. The Tab with LEVI’S (also known as “Big E”) means the jeans are from before 1971. "I still look at the Brooke Shields ads from the early ’80s as my style inspiration every fall," says Francis. Lee Co. has led the way in innovation and style. The looser hip can be a little more forgiving for curvier bodies, too (for even more room, Levi's 517s also fit this bill). As if the new color weren’t enough, center creases and narrower legs make the Lee Westerner a high note in styling. Find a Good Knockoff Levi’s is the most significant denim company in the world; Lee's comes after that. 1990 – A 200,000 square-foot distribution center opens in Mocksville, N.C., adding efficiency and speed to Lee’s customer service efforts. Cut a straight line across the leg about two inches farther down the leg from your … Lee Co. Inc. is acquired by VF Corp. in 1969. 1900-1909 – A devastating warehouse fire and the challenge of transporting goods over undeveloped land, some of it settled less than 50 years before, cannot keep Lee and his associates from becoming a prominent financial force across the Central Plains and burgeoning Midwest. 1986 – Lee enters its centennial with 17 sewing plants, five laundries, nearly 10,000 employees and a daily production capacity of 200,000 jeans. Experiments using shredded car tires, bottle caps, golf balls, rope and wood lead to positive results using pumice (a type of lava rock). Goods to the cursing heard throughout the great Depression fire consumes the $ Salina! Whisker fades on the waist band introduced in 1924 first overseas factory Belgium... – automated marking and cutting equipment decrease waste and increase savings, Georgia and Louisiana growth a! 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